Friday, December 11, 2009

#8 Morning bun at Tartine Bakery

Tartine is a delicious bakery. It is located at 18th and Guerrero in the Mission, on a "truly excellent food block" (as it was described to me by a colleague recommending good restaurants after I had lived in San Francisco for only a few months). Indeed, it's next door to Delfina (well, really next to Delfina Pizzeria), and just steps down the block from Bi-Rite (market and Creamery). The list recognizes the deliciousness of this block as well, requiring stops for #11 pork sugo with pappardelle at Delfina, #21 pizza margherita at Delfina Pizzeria, #25 loaf of bread straight out of the oven at Tartine, and #35 salted-caramel ice cream at Birite Creamery. Sounds like a whole day's worth of eating, doesn't it?

Here's what Tartine looks like from the outside (no sign, by the way, but usually easy enough to recognize by the line of people extending out the door).


I like to classify bakeries into two categories: scone or croissant. Scone bakeries are more rustic, less fussy, and more focused on wood-fired ovens and that sort of thing. Examples of excellent scone bakeries include Arizmendi (which is a worker-owned cooperative, typical for a scone bakery), Bakery Bar in Portland, and Wild Flour in Sonoma County. Croissant bakeries, on the other hand, are more refined and focus more on technique. Though Tartine has a currant scone on the menu, it is the epitome of a croissant bakery.

Which is why it's surprising that the thing to get from the list is apparently not a croissant! Instead, it's the morning bun. Topped with bitter orange, and flavored with caramelized sugar and cinnamon, the bun has a good combination of texture and flavor. B pointed out, when we sampled it yesterday morning, that there is a lot of butter in the bun. He took one bite, and then gave me the rest of the morning bun to eat. Funnily enough, since he likes the croissants more (we got a plain one and a chocolate one in addition to the bun), he never points out how much butter they likely have.

In the interests of full disclosure, we could easily figure out exactly how much butter the croissants have in them because my mom has the Tartine cookbook. And not only does she have the cookbook, but when she made croissants for the 80 guests we had at our post-wedding brunch, she used the Tartine recipe. B and I are therefore a little biased toward the croissants; in particular, we love the Scharffenberger pain au chocolat.

One final note: the quiche is fantastic at Tartine. They always have one veggie and one meat-based (usually with ham), but we almost always get the vegetarian version because of B's aversion to pork. They mix creme fraiche into the eggs, and have a flaky (would you be surprised if I added the adjective "buttery"?) crust. We had the quiche with Swiss chard and leek yesterday, which we very much enjoyed.

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